Palestine

My second day in Jerusalem, I got up early, said goodbye to my roommates and navigated my way to the bus stop and got on the bus to Ramallah. It was a nice ride and getting into Palestine was a lot easier than I thought it would be. When we arrived, somewhat by accident, I found a nice girl who showed me how to get to the university. I have been told that Ramallah and Birzeit (where my school ) are the 'Green Zones' so they are a lot nicer and more developed than the rest of West Bank. I haven't seen a ton of pictures from the West Bank, but where I am is a lot nicer than any pictures I have ever been shown. I find that a little depressing. Everyone has this idea that all of Palestine is underdeveloped and the people are suffering. I'm not trying to down play that. Just an hour outside of where I live, all the pictures I have seen of Palestine are a reality. Also, to leave the green zone you have to go through checkpoints. In America, we take for granted our right and freedom to just about anything. Here, people don't even have the right to move! Could you imagine not being able to move freely within the US? That's ridiculous! Yet it is a reality here. Contrast that with the fact that there are nice parts. Walking around, I feel like I'm back in Oman, except it's even more relaxed. Also the climate is a lot more bearable. I think the high is about 85? The more time I spend here, the more I'm falling in love with the Middle East. If it wasn't so difficult to get in and out of Palestine, I just might move here for a while.

The University I'm attending is on a hill, so on clear days you can see Jerusalem. If you're on the top floors of buildings, you can see the sea. The campus is small but very beautiful. I've been enjoying just walking around campus.

Everyone in the program is really nice. I'm the only person who has never been to Israel or Palestine so they are all taking me under their wing and giving me pointers. Classes start on Monday and I have to admit, I'm not excited. I'm taking 3 classes: Modern Standard Arabic, Colloquial Arabic, and a social sciences question called The Palestine Question. This means that On Monday and Wednesday, I'll have 6 hours of Arabic a day. On Tuesday and Thursdays I'll have 9 hours of classes. I'm not looking forward to that. Although, when it's all over and I can read and speak Arabic fairly well, I'm sure I'll feel differently. The best part is that I'll have a three day weekend to re-cooperate/catch up on homework. Speaking of the weekend, officially, the weekend is Friday and Sunday here. It seems strange not to have the weekend on two consecutive days but I guess it works here.

I'm supposed to be living in an apartment with 2 other girls. Currently it's just one because the other one hasn't arrived. I've heard that about half of the students in the program haven't arrived. We've been told that at least 10% of the students will be denied access into the country so hopefully my other roommate isn't in that group. Anyway, I share a room with my current roommate and the other girl has her own room. We all share everything else. Our kitchen and bathroom are huge! In our living room we have 3 couches and a tv with full satellite. We also have a washing machine. Our apartment was recently built so everything is new. It's the nicest place I have ever lived since I've been in college.

Sunday we're taking a tour of a refugee camp. I can't remember the name but I expect it will be quite the eye opener. For the next couple of days I plan on taking it easy and just enjoying what's left of my relaxation/vacation.

Continuing to engage in adventures . . .

Oman was amazing. Just the vacation I needed. Mostly I just hung out and ate all of the things I have missed, such as burgers, steak and fish. I also played with Giles (6) and Grady (almost 5 months). For about 6 days, I forgot I was an adult and instead my biggest worry was 'Which Disney movies should we watch?' Grady is probably the most chill baby ever. He rarely cries and mostly he just snuggles in your arms and smiles. He and I had an excellent time staring at each other and smiling. Of the over 100 photos I took, about half were of him.

I also got to spend time with Ty and Marcie which is always an adventure, to say the least, but in a good way. In addition to giving me great advice, they showed me what they've been involved in over the last few months. It's kind of a long story, but basically they have been helping illegal migrant workers leave Oman. Due to a recent crackdown, all of these guys have lots their jobs. The government then granted them amnesty, meaning they won't be imprisoned but they have to return to their homelands. Sounds good until you consider that none of these guys have a job or money, and even if they did, they never made enough to purchase a ticket home. So basically they are stuck. However, let's consider a magical world where someone had enough money to buy his ticket home. He then has to tackle the paperwork which is a little difficult since all of these guys are illiterate. There is also the fact that they are treated like dirt, so the embassy and processing officers often loose their papers, or it takes weeks to get everything sorted. That's where Ty and Marcie step in. Using the student organization they started, Students Against Prejudice, they have been able to raise money not only to buy plane tickets, but also to get food to these guys. One the day I went, we delivered over 1000 pounds of food that had been donated. They've also pulled in several students who speak hindi and bengali to explain what the guys need to do in order to get their paperwork sorted. Ty makes trips to the embassy at least twice a week to make sure everything is in order. Also, what takes weeks to get processed when the migrant workers go, only takes hours when he goes. It's a pretty big project they have taken on, but it was a first hand experience in human trafficking that I am glad I received. It's illegal to work with illegal migrants and everyday Ty and Marcie risk being deported. I guess, by staying in their house and then helping deliver the food, I was at risk too, but it was so worth it. And could you imagine the story? So like I said, being with them is always an adventure.

I left that world of adventure and relaxation for Israel. I feel like I am in southern California. The only downside to all of this is the fact that I can't go back to the middle east for a while. Despite asking him not to, the border guard stamped my passport. So until I get another one, the only Arab countries I can visit are Jordan and Egypt.

I'm staying in the Old city of Jerusalem in the Christian Quarter and it's pretty cool. There is nothing like walking among history. I asked for a recommendation for a place to eat and in addition to receiving an excellent recommendation, I also got invited to have tea at someone's house. It was a little awkward but still pretty cool. My host kept commenting on how nice I was and how it's rare for people to accept invitations. Because I not only accepted, but actually came, I was given tea and several maps of the city as a "thank you." They also gave me a pepper to eat with my breakfast. I kindly accepted it and threw it away when I got back to my hotel.

To save some money, I'm sleeping in a dorm room. There are two Germans and another American. Ironically, the American is best friends with a couple of guys I studied with in Delhi. Talk about small world. She also was in Thailand a couple of semesters ago. Currently she works in Egypt.

Tomorrow I'm heading off to Palestine and the next phase of my journey. I can't wait!

Continuing to engage in adventures . . .

Goodbye India

As I currently sit in the Delhi international terminal, waiting for the boarding call for my flight to Muscat, it's hard to believe this is real. Am I really about to leave India, without knowledge of when I will return? Indeed I am.

India and I have had a love/hate relationship. I arrived excited and ready to conquer the world's largest democracy. It wasn't long before India got the first win. Days after arriving, I found I really enjoyed India, but dealing with the poverty was a bit more than I was ready for. After 4 months I'm still not sure I've really adjusted to it. Every time I see a beggar, it's like the first time.

Subsequent battles emerged. Who won and lost isn't so important because eventually we made our peace. Although I have to say I feel as if I got the best deal; India gave me more than I could ever give back. I've learned so much here. Not only about myself, but the world in general and well, India. India was at times like a second mother, forcing you to experience things you don't want to, but in the end it's for your own good. I won't say that India took the role willingly, she was simply being herself; but the time we have spent together has created a transformation in me.

I think most of all I am going to miss the food. Especially gulab jammun and butter chicken. I will also miss the Dhaba, the dhaba crew, and the delicious dal fry I ate everyday. I'm really going to miss the booksellers: Victor and the other kid. I don't know his name because every time we asked him (in Hindi and English) he would just laugh at us. Seeing and playing with them was definitely the highlight of rickshaw rides. Speaking of rickshaws, I'm going to miss those too. As much as I enjoy riding in cars, riding in autorickshaws was just fun. Riding along and feeling the breeze in your face . . . always great. My favorite thing to do was wash my hair before class and then stick my head out of the side of the rickshaw and let it air dry. That was extremely dangerous, but very refreshing. I met a lot of interesting people in India, both in my program and on random adventures. I'm going to miss those encounters. Everyday in Delhi was an adventure, even with a schedule, you never really knew what was going to happen. I suppose that statement is true of anywhere, but in my experience, I found in Delhi, surprises were a lot more common. The trains were really nice in India. I'm going to miss being able to travel with ease and cheaply.

I won't miss the traffic or the fact that everywhere is a public restroom. I won't miss the lack of air conditioning or beef. I also won't miss the bureaucracy, that always made me wonder how anything is ever accomplished in India. Most of all, I won't miss the terrorist threats against Americans. Over the last few weeks they limited the number of places we could go which I didn't appreciate.

India was good to me. Regardless of how I feel now or 20 years from now, one thing will remain the same: For four months of my life, I was an Indian resident.

Continuing to engage in adventures . . .

Today I went to Saranth and it was a waste of time. My friend who gave me the hotel recommendation, told me that it wasn't worth going to but it sounded interesting. If nothing else, there was the opportunity to see the temples of various countries. Which I need to make a correction about, so there are 4 countries represented: Tibet, China, Japan, and Thailand.

The main area where the Buddha gave his sermon, is located in a park. There are also ruins from the first ever Buddhist temple and monastery. Apparently the Buddha liked to hang out on the main grounds and meditate. The park is nice, but a bit difficult to navigate. I walked around for a bit, but never found the "spot" where his sermon was delivered. In total, I spent about an hour walking around the park and visiting the various temples. Did I mention it got up to 113 today? What idiot decided to walk around for an hour in that kind of heat? That would be the idiot writing this blog. But rest assured, I'm not a total idiot. I had water with me and in the course of that hour I drank about 3 liters. It was cool to see the different temples, but in general my friend was right, waste of time. Oh well, you live and learn.

As if I didn't do enough dumb things today, while trying to edit photos, I accidentally deleted everything on my memory card. My record of the last two weeks will only consist of a few pictures of the Ganga, most likely taken from the roof of my hotel. I'm considering going to the Ganga Puja again, but I'm not sure how exciting it will be the second time, so I haven't decided.

Continuing to engage in adventures . . .

Varanasi

Two days ago, I arrived in Varanasi. It was quite the wake up call when I walked down the stairs and got hit with the 111 degree weather, I instantly longed for the cool 77 of Kathmandu.

The airport is about 20 km outside of the main city, so I got a taxi, and for 35 minutes, forgot I was in India. The view was nice and it just felt good to sit in a car, with my head leaning out the window, doing more than 60 km per hour. (In the city, you are lucky if you get up to 30)

I'm staying in the old city, in a hotel that overlooks the Ganges River. All of 5 minutes from where I am, bodies are cremated. Speaking of bodies, I forgot to mention that finding my hotel, was literally like finding a needle in a haystack. It took me about half an hour, and that was with a guide. During the walk, I was passed by two groups carrying bodies to the river for cremation.

The hotel has a rooftop restaurant with views of the river, so I've been spending a lot of time there, just gazing out into the city and at the river. I've heard so much about this place and now I am finally here. It just doesn't seem real.

Yesterday I spent the morning visiting temples. Last night, I went to the daily Gunga Puja. Today, I took a boat ride along the river and watched the sunrise. Tomorrow, I'm taking a day trip to Sarnath, where 15 days after receiving enlightenment, the Buddha gave his first sermon. In addition to seeing the "spot" where the Buddha spoke, just about every Buddhist country and culture has a temple there. Including Japan, China, Vietnam, and Tibet to name a few. I'm excited to see the contrast between the temples.

After that, I've still got 4 days before I leave, and nothing to do. Being here has been great, but I think I am more than ready to not only leave Varanasi, but also India in general. I fill a mix of emotions. On one hand I can't believe that my time here is actually ending. Not only have I had some really cool experiences, but I've met some very awesome people here and I'm not sure I am ready to let all of that go. On the other hand, I'm ready for a world with burgers, electricity 24/7, instant hot water and convenience. I've experienced how the other side of the world lives and I am ready to go back to my life.

Of course, I'm just bored, tired, and alone. I'm sure once I am back in a program with other people, these things won't bother me as much. I do love India (most of the time), I'm just ready for a new experience and the next phase of my adventures. Six more days! That's what I keep telling myself.

Continuing to engage in adventures . . .

Kathmandu

I've been in Kathmandu since the 5th. To say it's been an adventure would be an understatement. Two days before arrived I learned that there was a strike that had shutdown the city. I was told no vehicles were allowed on the roads and I'd be walking everywhere. Feeling optimistic, I got on the plane without any real fears.

I arrived and found that after paying for my visa, I was short on cash. No worries, I'd just go to an atm. Wrong. All of the atms were closed, thanks to the strike. So, with enough money to pay for 3 nights at my guest house (it's about $5.70 a night), if I didn't eat much, I was a little worried. When I did find an atm, I wasn't able to take out any money and I thought my account was frozen. Unfortunately I can't couldn't connect to the bank with either my American or Indian phone so for 12 hours I was in a state of panic as I waited to get word from my mom. Eventually everything worked out and I was able to get money out.

The second major adventure was being sick. For the last 2 weeks I haven't really felt well. Mostly I was just tired and without an appetite. I had the end of classes and finals to deal with, so I slept when I could and kept on going. When it first started, one of my best friends from high school, who is in med school right now, told me I either had the flu or malaria. I haven't had the flu in about 5 years. Also, even when I take it sporadically, I still take my malaria pills, so I didn't believe her. Within 7 hours of arriving in Kathmandu, walking 10 feet made me feel like I was going to collapse. I think I might have had the flu. So, the first three days in Nepal were spent in my room, reading and sleeping. It was the perfect time to be sick because the strike ensured that everything was closed until the evening, when things were open from 6-8.

Luckily, the first day I could do stuff, was the first day the strike was over. I took a cab to the monkey temple which was cool, I just had to climb to heaven to get there, about 300 steps!

The rest of my time has been spent sight-seeing and relaxing; this is my vacation after all. For my last night in the city, the Europeans in my guesthouse took me out to a bar and for about 3 hours we sat around talking about life, travel, and our respective countries. I think I finally understand the difference between the country the UK, as well as the countries that make it up. I also learned the proper usage of the term "British." It was a good night, and I think for the first time, I actually felt like a backpacker.

In a few hours I'm off to Varanasi. I'm excited to finally go to the holiest city in India. I'll be there for 9 days so there will be plenty of time for more updates.

Continuing to engage in adventures . . .

Goodbye Delhi

How is it that my time is over?

Lately, when I wasn't working on finals stuff, I read the blogs of my friends and everyone has a post about how they don't want to leave and how they have grown. I'm pretty sure I've grown, but I'm not sure I'm in the position to adequately judge that. Give me a few weeks and I'll get back to you. Also, I'm not leaving. Yes, in a few hours I'm going to Nepal, but in a week I'll be back in India, relaxing in Varanasi. I don't actually leave India until the 19th, so you can expect a "goodbye India" post then. I will say that it's hard to believe that four months have passed. It seems like just yesterday I was excited about my first rickshaw ride. Suddenly there is the reality that I won't be riding in rickshaws anymore.

Tonight, my closest friends and I went our for ice cream at one of our favorite restaurants, The Big Chill. They serve pasta, but the real treat is their dessert menu which takes up about 70% of the entire menu. Don't get me wrong, I love Indian sweets, but there is nothing like ice cream with hot fudge and a warm brownie. I've never been one to say goodbye, so I always say "see you later" instead. However, as I sat with my friends, the reality sank in: we probably won't see each other again and this life, my life for the last 4 months, is about to change. I lived in Delhi for four months and now that's over. Life goes on and it's time for the next phase, the next adventure. Am I ready for it? Part of me wants to hold on to this a little longer, just to make sure I've really taken advantage of it. Another part of me is ready to move on. Regardless, life continues and in the last few hours I watched my friends part for the airport. Bittersweet is the only way I can describe how I feel.

I won't have access to the internet during the next to weeks so stories from Nepal and my goodbye post will be together. In the meantime, I'm going to work on saying goodbye to Delhi.

Continuing to engage in adventures . . .